Aegean & Mediterranean : Sights & Places of Interest

English Harbor got its name because this is where British ships hid to escape the German submarines during WWII. This quiet, protected harbor is a great place for swimming and snorkeling. Pretty fish and starfish dwell here and the kids had a great time collecting the starfish and observing them. Of course we put them back so others can enjoy them as well. 

Yedi Adalar is a group of  7 islands – it appears that each individual island does not have a name but we moored at a spot called Bekarli Liman. The water is crystal clear turquoise blue. The view from the yacht was spectacular. But the first thing you notice, after the engines turn off, is the cacophony of the sea gulls that live on the rock island just ahead. Thousands of them. They seem to be talking and laughing and having a grand time. The children took off to snorkel – this was the best place so far for snorkeling. Many fish and very colorful ones too – and great shells. 

The adults decided to take a walk on the islands. The islands looked like dunes with fascinating vegetation and beautiful flowers of many colors (we were there in June). We also collected many tiny shells which we will use to cover eggs and use for Christmas ornaments. We walked around the island listening to the seagulls laugh at us until we reached a particular point at the end of the island where the seagulls started dive bombing the leader of out pack. We avoided that area and continued on back to the boat with our booty of shells. Even with the mishap, it was a wonderful walk and I highly recommend it.

This is a small quiet cove  - great for swimming. We spent the night here.

When you first arrive to Knidos you are not impressed – just a hillside of ruins. But as you ascend the hillside peninsula you realize why this was one of the richest and most ancient cities in the world. A natural protected harbor with an additional natural interior harbor, as well as one to the best views around! The city is surrounded by walls that probably date back to 4^th Century BC and the time of  King Mausolos. Mycean pottery has been found that dates back to 14^th Century BC – but the oldest relics date from 3^rd Millennium BC. The name “Knidos” dates back to the Late Bronze Age where 13^th Century. So, all in all, to make a long story short, Knodos has been occupied by Myceans, Dorians, Greeks, Roman and Byzantines. The cities were most likely abandoned by earthquakes and natural causes. 

The most important site in Knidos is the Altar at which stood the first ever statue of a naked woman - Aphrodite. She is not there now (she was absconded to the the British Museum), but you can see the place where she stood in all her glory gazing over the harbor and welcoming visitors to Knidos. It must have been quite a sight. From this spot you can clearly see Knidos' other claim to fame - it is also the exact place where the Aegean and Mediterranean Seas meet. From this spot as you overlook the harbor, the Aegean Sea lies to the right and the Mediterranean to the left. The other visible ruins are one of the 5 churches with some mosaics which were presented to a lady named Cleopatra (not the Egyptian); the Doric Temple dedicated to Apollo Karneios; the Temple of Apollo and Altar built in 2^nd Cenury AD;  the round Temple and the theater which held 5000 persons.

Knidos is fairly unprotected by trees – so it does get very hot in the summer months. Be sure to bring your water and wear some good hiking shoes so you can explore the island. We trekked for hours along the goat paths that we reached by climbing up the hillside behind the Temple and Altar. We reached the Acropolis and the Odeion and took in the great views as we hiked amongst the purple clouds of aromatic thyme that grows wild all over the peninsula (we were there in June). Be adventurous – there is no chance that you will get lost because from the upper vantage points you can always see your starting point. Take the road less traveled.

A small town south of Gokova Bay, this is a nice stop for a bit of shopping and a little nightlife. There are a few small, quaint open-air discos if you are in the mood to dance; several restaurants that offer salad, Turkish Meatballs, French Fries and a beer for $5 per person. The shopping is limited to 20-30 small shops, but it is fun. There is also a small outdoor theater at the harbor that offers classical concerts under the brilliant stars on specific nights during the summer - you must go if you are fortunate enough to be there for this. The music is quite good. In front of the theater is an artisan flea market type of set up where you can find anything from salt and pepper shakers for beaded jewelry to dinner plates.

As you enter into the harbor of Orhance you are taken back by the high mountains that dramatically meet the sea, and the remnants of a castle that is atop the mountain to the right. In front of you there is a thin line of red sand that stretches from one end of the harbor almost to the other end – almost cutting the harbor in two. I haven’t been able to find information about the castle, but I did learn the legend of the thin red sandbar “Kis Kumu” or Girl’s Sand. Here is the story, but if anyone finds out why this phenomena occurs, then please let me know - I am so curious (I think it may be a fault under the harbor).

It is said that a wealthy landowner had a beautiful daughter. She fell madly in love with an ordinary peasant boy, to the father’s displeasure. The father forbad the girl to see the boy, but the two were so deeply in love that even the father’s threats could not stop the two lovers from each other. Seeing that the children were not going to obey his wishes, the father restricted his daughter to the confines of her home on the north end of the harbor and had the boy held captive on the south end of the harbor. Knowing that her lover was on the other end of the harbor, she ventured out each evening after her father had gone to sleep, and slowly moved the sands, handful by handful, and built a pathway of sand, a few inched wide, to cut across the harbor. Each night until morning, inch by inch, she would move the sand, unbeknownst to her father. Until one night, when the moon was full and shown brightly upon the harbor, the father awoke and peered out the window and was enraged to see his daughter standing on a pathway in the center of the harbor - almost to the other end of the harbor. Incensed with betrayal he brandished his sword and followed the path his daughter had built across the harbor. When he reached her, he unsheathed his sword and in a fury sliced her in two. As her blood spilled into the harbor it turned the sand on the pathway to her lover completely to red, as it remains today.

One of the largest towns on the Mediterranean Coast of Turkey, Marmaris was once a small fishing village. Today it offers lots of reasonably priced shopping and restaurants. There is a castle built by Kanuni Sultan Suleman that is today a museum. We looked for a good hamam, but were not able to find one. There was one in the old bazaar, but it was not separated by men and women and it did not look very clean. We found an internet café on the roadway along the marina – so we all sent messages home.

One of the most beautiful features of the site are the rock tombs sculpted in the form of the porticoes of small Ionic temples. These are among the most splendid examples of Lycian-type funerary architecture in Turkey, although the builders were Carians. The original occupants of the tombs are obscure but are assumed to have been Kaunian noblemen; in most cases they were vacated and reused in Roman times. The largest one is unfinished, providing a curious glimpse of the method of construction.

The prosperity of Kaunos was threatened by the silting of the harbor after which the city was eventually abandoned. The Mediterranean, which once surrounded the hill on which the archaeological site stands, has now retreated 5 km. to the south, pushed back by silt from the Dalyan Cayi. The marsh which formed appears to have already been a problem for the harbor activities in Strabon times.

A nice little cove where you can swim. There is a great hike here – just follow the road that you can clearly see on the right of the small beach. The road that winds around and up the hill must have been the original road used for centuries by the Byzantines or perhaps older civilizations. Earthquakes have taken their toll, but it is still very clear that this was once a great road. The road is steep and there are lots of stones and hard to get a clear footing, but go slowly and don’t forget to bring water – it’s hot! Once at the top of the road, you will see many ruins spread along the hilltop. Most appear to be Byzantine. It is a wonderful place because you are all alone, save for a family of locals that have taken residence in a stone yurt down below. It is a great place to have a picnic lunch amongst the ruins of an ancient culture that are over 1600 years old. There is a big old tree at the foot of the ruins that can provide shade. Up here your imagination can really wander as you daydream about Byzantine life. This is a wonderful place, if it is not on your itinerary - ask your captain to stop here! 

Get to butterfly valley early. Walk to the waterfall in the morning – because in the afternoon several ferries with hoards of people arrive to do the same. Have a swim in the Mediterranean’s most beautiful waters and relax before your next adventure – look up - you are off to Faralya Village – that is where you will have lunch. Walk as if you were going back to the waterfall but now take the road that goes to the right to Faralya Village. It is a climb up the mountain. There are four ropes to assist you, but it is a strenuous climb, so if you are not in good shape, do not try it. Follow the red marks on the rocks until you reach the summit (about 45 minutes). At the top, past the goats and chickens, you will find George’s House. You will be greeted by George’s sons – Ramazan, Hasan, Mustafa and their families. Take your shoes off and take a seat on the pillows along the perimeter of the open air room. You will be asked to share your meal with other guests, most likely British or Australian. You will be served food – family style and you will be encouraged to eat until you burst. All of the food is grown right at George’s house and is organic. You meal is about $1.75 per person all inclusive and All-You-Can-Eat. They are open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. You can also rent a bed here – open air for $1. 

You can get to George’s House by climb from Butterfly Valley, or go by Minibus from Fethiye (7am,11am, 5pm); Oludeniz (7:30am, 11:30am, 5:30pm) Bus back to Fethiye & Oludeniz leaves at (8:40am, 12:40pm, 4:40pm)

The capital city of the Lycian League, the documented history of Patara dates back to 500 BC. Amongst other things, Patara claims to be the birthplace of St. Nicholas and Apollo. The site is currently under excavation and you can walk or drive to its several buildings of Byzantine and Roman. You can buy the official guide book for Patara only at the entrance gate for about $12. It is written by Dr. Fahri Isik and published by the Universal Holding that is leading and funding the excavations of Patara. All proceeds from the sale of the book are dedicated to the excavations. I recommend it as it offers a lot of useful information. 

Your admission to Patara includes both the ruins and the beach. Make sufficient time to visit both – a full day at the beach with jaunts to the ruins in between would be ideal. The fine sand, wide, clean beach and crystal clear water is heavenly. The beach is protected by the government as a Loggerhead (Caretta Caretta) nesting ground. There are several dolmus’ and busses from Fethiye, Kas and Kalkan to Patara Beach.

Saklikent is another "must see" place if you get as far as Kalkan. Tell your captain, and he can arrange a car or mini bus to Saklikent who will stay with you all day. It is about a 30 minute drive inland. At the entrance to the gorge you pay admission – remember in Turkey they have special prices for kids, teachers and seniors. The cost to get in is about 50 cents for adults and 25 cents for students. Follow the path to the gorge. Along the way you will see unique restaurants – take note that they use the cold waters of the gorge to refrigerate their food and drink.

The gorge itself is very interesting. It also provides a great hiking opportunity if you are in good shape. Venture into the gorge and follow it in. I have heard that you can get all the way to the top of the gorge (I will try that next time), but we went in until we met our match of a huge boulder blocking our way- but up until that point it was great fun! The rock formations formed from hundreds of years of erosion have made the most beautiful shapes and the rock surfaces are so smooth, and the countless never-ending waterfalls were just beautiful. One area in particular was stepped with perhaps six alternating waterfalls all made of smooth whites stone – it was a feast for the eyes. Other areas were in complete darkness and frightening until the gorge opened to the light again. I felt like I was on an amusement park ride in Disney World – but it was so much better! On the way back it was even more fun because we could slide down some of the waterfalls on smooth rocks into shallow pools of water. 

Please note that this adventure was very dangerous at some areas. You must go with at least a partner, water shoes or Tevas are a must, you need both hands free, and do not bring cameras or wallets, etc. They will get wet.  We went in June – I do not know if the water volume changes during the summer months.

After our gorge expedition, we went tubing. It cost about $6 per person. It is great fun! I recommend this to everyone.

Not much remains of the site but there are a number of ‘Gothic’ sarcophagus lids by the riverside and many interesting tombs cut into the base of a low hillock about a mile (1 km) to the west of the village.

Oren has another claim to fame with the ancient local legend that Leto gave birth to Apollo and Artemis here and not in Delos. An inscription found at Sidyma authenticates the legend by placing the birth at Araxa. The legend claims that the river Xanthos was revealed when "in the bitter pangs of her divine labour she tore up with her hands the hard soil of Lycia". Returning to the present day Oren does have a few local restaurants on the beach offering basic but delicious food, which can be appreciated ‘far from the madding crowds’.

It is strange that so little should remain of ancient Physicus when it was considered to be the most important of all the cities in the Peraea, the only one to be named separately, according to George Bean, and a city that enjoyed a special relationship, presumably commercial, with Lindos on Rhodes. In all likelihood the city was carried away piece-meal by ships for building projects elsewhere, or perhaps just as ballast. The accessibility of the site and the anchorage, denying it the longevity of the other less accessible sites on the Loryma Peninsula.

Although very little is left from ancient times, a toy-like medieval fortress rises above the jumble of the old village. The fortress may have been built by Suleyman the Magnificent in 1522 A.D. as a base for his assault on Rhodes against the Knights of St. John.

Later on, when Nelson was pursuing Napoleon and the French Fleet around the Mediterranean in 1798, he put in at Marmaris to make some repairs and give his long-suffering sailors a short respite from the hectic business of keeping up with Napoleon. Nelson thought Marmaris the best fleet anchorage in the Eastern Mediterranean and thereafter the Admiralty recommended it as: "… suited to the various purposes of airing stores, stretching rigging, repairing boats, erecting tents for carpenters, armorers and coopers, and for unloading and carrying transports and prices."

Later in Byzantine times, the bay was called "the arsenal", for the ancient fort standing at the entrance. It is well worth the short climb up to the fort to examine the site and enjoy the view. Some of the stone blocks are over 5 meters (17 feet) long and more than 1 meter (3 feet) square, all of them fitting perfectly together.

On the west side of the bay there are several restaurants, but apart from this no other modern settlements moved in after the ancients left.

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